11pm, Sunday night, Tunica. Someone has thrown the doom switch on me at a 4-8 table that I was playing for shits and giggles, so wandering down to the Asian games pit and playing some $50/hand paigow seems like the thing to do. There is a tiny, wrinkled, white-haired woman sitting next to me. She's "in her cups", swilling down bottles of Budweiser. We start talking and she tells me, almost proudly, that she is down $1,000. Playing paigow.
She's very unhappy that I'm not playing the fortune bonus and asks if it's ok that she play my fortune bonus on her money. I agree because I don't really care -- I never play the fortune bonus under the theory that the house edge is too huge to justify playing it.
[Amusing side note here: One of the things I learned on Sunday is that hitting a royal flush in paigow pays 150-to-1. If you're playing the fortune bonus. My royal flush in clubs paid me fuck-all.]
Because the casino requires that I have to be the one to place the bet on my fortune bonus spot, in between each hand the old woman slides me
$15. It becomes crystal clear to me how she could be stuck $1,000 playing paigow.
"Where are you from?" she asks.
"New York City."
"New York City! How about that. We're from Arkansas! What do you all think about Mrs. Clinton up there?"
Now I am actually prepared for this question. Before leaving New York, I read something somewhere (2+2 maybe) that claimed that most of Arkansas thinks Bill and Hillary Clinton are gods. Never, under any circumstances, should you say anything negative about the Clintons to someone from Arkansas. The problem is I'm not the best at lying. So I equivocate a little bit and say that she's ok, but I'm not her biggest fan.
"We hate her," the old woman states emphatically.
"Really? I thought everyone from Arkansas loved the Clintons."
The old woman glances to both sides and then leans forward as if she is about to let me in on a huge secret. I cock my ear a little and she furtively replies, "Blacks!"
Hmm. I just nod politely and give her an "Ah. I see."
"Yep! They're real popular in Niggertown. Well, that's what *we* call it."
I can only imagine that "we" refers to a bunch of 70-year old white people in a little town outside of Jonesboro, Arkansas who proudly fly their Confederate flag in their front yard and drive 40-year old pickup trucks with bumper stickers that read "I HATE NIGGERS". I ponder the wisdom of telling the old woman that my girlfriend is Asian and Jewish. I'm not interested in causing a scene in the Asian games pit (where sympathy will most assuredly be on the side of the genteel blue-hair from the South and not on the young whippersnapper Yankee) but I'm also not interested in condoning such blatant racism. As the old woman drains the last of her Budweiser my elbow, of its on accord, makes a motion towards "accidentally" nudging her chair backwards so it tips over. Do two wrongs make a right? I feel like this case should be the exception to the rule since it would be a neat solution to the problem without creating confrontation but I manage to regain control of my limbs and the blue-hair stays upright in her chair.
She wipes some beer from her mouth with the back of her hand. "Yep, them niggers love Bill and Hillary. It's all niggers really." Her initial apprehension about saying the word "blacks" has vanished completely and the N-bombs are flying fast and furious. People the next pit over now know her views about Bill, Hillary and "niggers". I'm desperate to get out of the conversation.
Another hand of pai gow. She bets $15 on my fortune bonus again. "I'm not leaving until you win!" Right then. Time for a color up. Nice talking to you.
Or not.
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